Travel: Jazz buoys New Orleans recovery
Hotty Miss  |  by www.dallasnews.com. All rights reserved. 5.04 | 5:28

It was the lack of expectations. Or it could have been the lack of light, of space, of seating. I sat on a cushion on the floor of a small, musty room.

The walls bore that single-line watermark, the signature of Hurricane Katrina. In the confined, dark space, strangers surrounded me. I had come to the heart of New Orleans' French Quarter to Preservation Hall to hear genuine jazz.

Sounds of Bourbon Street revelry reached me as I waited for the doors to open.
Once inside, the audience settled as elderly black musicians slowly took their places and lifted travel-worn instruments. They played, and my heart sang with every note.

Catastrophe hadn't silenced the music.
The hall, built in 1750, is a link to the past. A home, a tavern, an inn, a photo studio and an art gallery over the years, it has been a stronghold of a city's musical spirit since 1961.


Without glitter, without microphones, the Preservation Hall Jazz Band played rhythms passed from generation to generation. We leaned forward to listen. The singer leaned toward us.

Elbows wedged, knees touched, bodies pressed together.
Sitting at the feet of the musicians, our small group of strangers slipped into the intimacy of shared experience. The players' banter escalated as they moved from song to song, inviting the audience into their circle of music.


As the evening ended, I remained seated, my head on my knees, my eyes closed, chasing those last notes as they faded into the night.

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