DON'T WORRY if you're running late on St Kitts - it really doesn't matter what the time is. The people are as sunny as the weather, smiling all the time and genuinely delighted to see you. Life here moves along at its own pace.
St Kitts, located in the eastern Caribbean, basks in year-round sunshine as well as tropical temperatures. However, its mountainous, volcanic landscape ensures that there is always a light, cooling breeze. Gazing out over the lush rainforests and green hilltops, the scenic similarities with Scotland are remarkable.
It will also host six of the matches in the early group stage of the ICC Cricket World Cup 2007 next month, when Scotland will take on Australia, Holland and South Africa.
St Kitts - also known as St Christopher - and Nevis were colonised by the British in 1623, gaining their independence in 1983. Today, it is an independent Commonwealth Realm with the Queen as its head of state.
The island reluctantly ceased loss-making sugar production in 2005, paving the way for tourism to become its main source of income. All around though, the canes keep on growing as a reminder of the island's former wealth. And another reminder is the delightful Sugar Train which follows the narrow gauge railroad built to move raw sugar cane from the fields to a mill in the capital, Basseterre.
Today, it is one of the island's most popular tourist attractions and the experience is made all the more special by the fact that conductor, who goes by the magnificent name of Levi Pemberton, once drove the train when it was in commercial use. Unlike many of the other sugar-producing Caribbean islands, St Kitts chose not to dismantle its sugar train when the industry shut down, instead bringing it back to life as a tourist attraction. The Sugar Train (www.
stkittsscenic railway.com, 001 869 465 7263) departs from the Needsmust train station near Basseterre's airport. Prices start from 25 for children and 45 for adults.
Other interesting places to visit include Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park (www.brimstonehill fortress.org), designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2000 and arguably the best-known attraction on St Kitts.
Built over a period of 104 years, starting in 1690, the site is considered to be one of the finest examples of British military architecture in the world. It also has a museum and visitor centre to help you piece togther the history.
Like all Caribbean islands, St Kitts is deeply rooted in music and has, for the last 10 years, played host to a world-renowned music festival.
In 2006 this attracted the likes of Dionne Warwick and Shaggy. The 11th Annual St Kitts Music Festival (www.stkitts musicfestival.
net) will take place from June 21-24 this year. Other festivals and carnivals celebrating local life, culture and folklore take place throughout the year - look out for the "moko-jumbies", the colourful, stilt-walking characters that typify the carnivals.
I stayed at a small plantation inn called Ottley's, set within 35 acres of lush greenery on the hillside site of a restored 17th-century sugar plantation and typical of Kittitian architecture in its use of local materials.
Boasting stunning views over the Atlantic and around 20 minutes from Basseterre, it would have been the perfect romantic getaway had I been there with the man in my life, but it did prove to be an ideal base for exploring St Kitts.
Trinidadian-born businessman and developer Val Kempadoo is loosely basing a new five-star resort in the east of the island around the Ottley's model. Kittitian Hill is being built on the site of a former sugar plantation and the 184 million venture will comprise a 150-room hotel and a smaller 12-room spa hotel offering destination spa holidays.
There will also be freehold villas, apartments and townhouses, buy-to-let cottages, an artists' village, tennis courts, swimming pools and a golf course designed by Ryder Cup captain, Ian Woosnam.
Over the next few years, there will be a lot happening to bring more tourists to the island, but the good news is that there will be no more large hotels like the five-storey St Kitts Marriott Hotel Royal Beach Casino, for example. It's a very luxurious place, but it doesn't quite fit in with the laid-back pace of life on St Kitts, and the now government has pledged not to allow any similar hotels to be built.
Most of the hotels on the island are small, family-run affairs with quiet pools for those who simply want to chill out and recharge their batteries. Virtually anywhere on St Kitts makes a good base for water-based activities, such as scuba diving, catamaran cruising, snorkelling, kayaking, sailing and windsurfing.
I'd also recommend a guided walking tour of the capital.
But take my advice, don't book up for the middle of the afternoon when the sun's at its hottest. I was forced to take refuge in the wonderful Circus Grill (Bay Road, Basseterre, 001 869 465 0143) and drink several glasses of rum punch.
My friends, however, soldiered on and were in awe of St George's Anglican Church, christened Notre Dame in 1670 by the French.
Basseterre's French heritage, however, is overwhelmed by its British colonial past and Georgian architecture. For the more adventurous, there are also rainforest walks - at Ottley's, you have your very own rainforest to explore on the doorstep.
Don't feel you have to do everything they tell you in the guidebooks.
After arriving on St Kitts you'll soon fall into a wonderful, laid-back pace of life. Drop into a Kittitian rum shop, soak up the local life in bustling Basseterre and generally take it easy. There's always tomorrow.