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Ronaldinho  |  by e.sinchew-i.com. All rights reserved. 12.02 | 17:26

But this lively city and the island deserve more than just the cursory transit of those on 2-day visa runs.
Fukuoka is a city alive with its own blend of Japanese culture. A prime ingredient of that mix is found in the tiny sidewalk restaurants known as yatae.


In daylight the sidewalks are clear of obstructions so that many of the city's 5 million residents can cruise to work on bicycle, as their habit.
The city also sports a modern and clean subway and bus transit system that transports a visitor from the airport to downtown in just 20 minutes or from a 10 o'clock visa pickup at the consulate to a noon flight departure for Seoul, a feat pulled off by at least four visa runners on Jan 11.
Back to the yatae.

These two wheeled contraptions unfold from daytime parking berths to set up shop at around 7 p.m. each evening.


With a seating capacity of 10, they offer a varied food and drink fare including the traditional Japanese version of soju called shochu, sometimes served warm, and a menu that features special fresh Hakata Ramen noodles cooked al dente, reminds Ryo Sato, a 5-year apprentice at Takachan's yatae.
Takachan has been in business on this busy corner across from a Yoshinoya (beef bowl noodle chain) in Fukuoka's evening entertainment district for 22 years.
It is the strange characters these street stalls attract that keep the pair in business.

They like it because of very funny customer like this , says Ryo, gesturing to Mitsutioshi Hammer Hanabe, a fiftyish character in a black cowboy.
The cowboy graphic designer and his sidekick computer engineer Kiku have been regulars of Takachan's yatae for more than 20 years. Their particular favourite snacks are o-deng and jidori (wild chicken).

But remember, if you do get the Hakata noodles, served with slices of pork in a sesame base soup, and they are tasty, and if you are not full on the 500 (USD4.15) portion you can just call for a kaidama 100 refill.
If yatae don't seem like the best place to get your fill of tunes, Fukuoka does present plenty of other musical options.

The top on the club scene is Moses Yamane's Dark Room. The rock club seems to be holding up against the hip hop trend.
It's tough to compete, says the long term US expatriate Yamane, who has been in the business for a decade.

His small bar, though large by Japanese standards, is often the stop of choice for after party gigs, having enjoyed visits from alternative rock giants such as The Smashing Pumpkins, Marilyn Manson, The Wallflowers, Green Day, The Pixies and Blink 182.
On Jan 9, it filled up for the United Kingdom's Kasabian after gig bash following their show at the Zepp, a chain of medium-sized venues throughout Japan.
Other night spots known with foreigners include the International Bar for drinks and Sam and Dave's for dancing.


Long-term expatriate and former New York City resident Mike Charron plans to soon open a British style pub that will serve 14 different drafts and pub style food under the prospective banner of The Craic and the Porter.
All these can be found using Fukuoka Now's (Fukuoka's international magazine) useful numbered map and ad system although all the above-mentioned clubs are in the Oyafuko-dori section of town, accessible from the Tenjin subway station.
Their editor, Matthew Benyon, advises visitors to look up to find their destinations.

Most night spots are located above street level and are quite small owing to the astronomical expense of renting Japanese real estate.
If you're looking for some live music you might want to try the Festa bar on Kokutai-doro across from the ampm--watch for the Union Jack.
Complete with full sound stage and house band obsessed with the Beatles, owner/bassist Mikio Okabe and bartender/pianist/vocalist Makoto Haraguchi will endear you with their friendly nature.


Their lone guest queried, upon sight of the well-equipped stage, Is there live music here? at which point Makoto got behind the ivories to belt out entertaining versions of Ret it be, O bra di, o bra da, and just for the occasion, Desperado, with a genuinely gifted voice.
A January Wednesday is perhaps not the best time to take stock of Fukuoka's night life although fellow visa runners--Irishman Paul McMahon, now heading to Cambodia, and Jason Siperly of Seattle, back to Korea for his sixth year of English teaching--were also out on the town.

Siperly admits there is more going on in Osaka but he found Fukuoka cheaper, cleaner and warmer.
The costly part of your visit will be renting that real estate for a place to lay your head. Refer to the Now.

A cheap hotel will run you around 7,000, of which there are plenty. Other options include a recently opened youth hostel, or my personal favourite, the Greenland Capsule Hotel right in Oyafuko-dori. For just 4,000, you sleep in a room about one metre by one metre by two metres complete with bedding, alarm clock radio and TV.

In addition, you have full use of a good clean sauna and public bath. They also have a women's section but some odd rules, in particular, no tattoos, perhaps to avoid yakuza or military types.
After checking in you don't need anything and though the snoring of other guests can sometimes keep one awake, if you follow the train of thought implied above that should not be a problem.


Fukuoka is also home to a nice waterfront and a tranquil lake park, Ohori Koen, both near the consulate and located on the map on the wall opposite the turnstiles at the Tojin-Machi subway station.
While roaming the city you are bound to come across several temples and Buddhist monuments. Especially worth the visit, however, is the Tochoji Temple near the Gion subway station.


Should visitors to Fukuoka have time and cash for further travel, Nagasaki is a destination recommended for a visit to the Glover Gardens, nearby spas and golf courses and the somewhat somber Peace Park and Atomic Bomb Museum.
For dining, highly recommended is the 350-year-old restaurant Ryotei Fukiro, where you will be served by elder Japanese women in full Geisha costume, and seated on the floor in your private and peaceful tatami matted room.
Another interesting side trip is Kumamoto, famous for its castle and Japanese style garden, Suizenji Jojuen Park.

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